The Nightmares AND The Fairytales Of Hallstatt, Austria – A Travel Guide You Need To Read First

After a few repeat routes around the block and being turned away from the car-park a third time, my husband saw his moment and slipped through the open barrier in front of a service truck. We needed to park the car!

We had arrived on the outskirts of the car-free lake town of Hallstatt, Austria, at 3pm with a reservation for a local hotel. It was a quick realisation that this was no serene waterside paradise like we’d seen in the photographs. The place swarmed with people, the car parks were full, and we were beginning to wonder if we’d made a mistake in our itinerary. Is Hallstatt worth visiting if it’s almost impossible to access and the drive there was THIS stressful? Add to that the hoard’s of tourists…

Well, we finally spent a delightful night on lake Hallstatt, and there is lots to tell you about this stunning location. But clearly, there were a few things we wished we’d known before our arrival! So we’re here to fill you in on the highs and lows of our visit, some top tips on how to do it right, everything that’s worth seeing, plus a great recommendation of a place to stay. Let us introduce you to the lake spectacle that is HALLSTATT…

Hallstatt In Austria

In the heart of Austria sits a jewel on a lake, the storybook village of Hallstatt. Framed by the Dachstein Alps, wooden houses cling to the steep slopes and reflect their pastel-coloured timbers into the clear waters below. This place is a scenic wonder!

For years Hallstatt was tucked away in the Salzkammergut region remaining largely unknown to the outside world. A quiet lakeside village where life moved to the rhythm of the seasons and locals lived modestly, sustained either by the local salt mine or the fishing opportunities.

But, ever since captivating images of Hallstatt’s fairytale vista’s went viral, the town has received tourists in their droves from every corner of the globe. Today it seems like there is a definite struggle to balance this once alpine retreat with the pressures of mass tourism. However, when the day trippers leave in the late afternoon, a calm returns to Hallstatt – there’s a fleeting moment when you can actually sense the town exhale.

The golden light softens the lake, the church bells echo gently off the surrounding peaks, and remaining visitors that have chosen to spend the night seem to whisper their conversations for fear of upsetting the tranquility. It’s in these quieter hours that the soul of Hallstatt reveals itself once more — not as a backdrop for selfies, but as a living, breathing community with deep roots and enduring traditions. Despite the crowds and camera flashes, the village still holds its magic — you just have to wait for it to whisper, rather than shout.

Our Top Tips For When You Visit Hallstatt

  • Stay the night – you’ll experience the beauty of Hallstatt more without the crowds
  • Book our recommended apartment to enjoy the views from your room (see the section ‘Where To Stay In Hallstatt’)
  • Pack light, you can’t drive in Hallstatt and the car park is at least 5 minutes walk away
  • Arrive before 9.30am or after 4pm (see the section ‘Parking In Hallstatt’)
  • Bring your own food – options are limited
  • BRING CASH – several restaurants don’t accept cards and the ferry and boat hire only accepts cash too. There are cash machines in town.
  • Think about your itinerary before you arrive – there are multiple things to do in Hallstatt and some activities need booking (see ‘Things To Do In Hallstatt’)

WHERE TO STAY IN HALLSTATT

Spending the night in Hallstatt is the only way you are going to truly experience its magic. The tour-buses have left, souvenir shops are closed, and locals seem to emerge from their hiding places. But the choice of accommodation in Hallstatt is weak (& perhaps it needs to stay that way if peace is to rule supreme come evening).

There is one large 4 star hotel on the front of the lake which seemingly scoops up the majority of over-nighters, the Seehotel Gruner Baum. And if ‘dated retirement-home’ is your thing, then feel free to soak up its prime position on the water at least. There are also a handful of B&B and apartment options in town, but again style is severely lacking and since you’re here for the views you really do want to stay somewhere where you can take advantage. This is where we do have a great recommendation to share with you…

Pension Hallberg is a cute little guest house with two apartments, both with exceptional views – we sat and watched the light change on the lake for hours! They each have kitchens, plus the host kindly offers bowls of fruit and tea and coffee in the communal area as well. Communication was great, the apartment was modern enough, the beds were very comfy, the building has a lift, but most of all we just loved it for the views. This is the perfect place to stay for one night in Hallstatt. For the best deals at Pension Hallberg, click here.

PARKING IN HALLSTATT

Due to its size (you can walk the length of Hallstatt in 5 minutes) and the nature of the towns layout, Hallstatt is a pedestrianised area and all cars have to be parked on the outskirts of town in either P1, P2 or P4.

As we quickly discovered, when we arrived at 3pm, car parks P1 & P2 in peak season quickly fill up, and, if you believe the reviews, out of season too. This makes your trip an absolute lottery since there is nowhere to hang around waiting for a space, you just have to drive around the block hoping that as one car leaves you may be passing at the right time. Hallstatt is not properly equipped for the amount of visitors it receives. So, the only stress-free option you have is to arrive before 9.30am or after 4pm. We noticed that the crowds thinned considerably after 4pm so if you are staying overnight this would be your cue to arrive.

P2 is the closest car park and only takes 5 minutes to walk to the lakeside from here. P1 is a little further but has more spaces available since there is underground parking too. P1 should also provide a shuttle bus into Hallstatt but as you will quickly realise here, the locals seem to hate the tourists, and since it’s a local guy driving the shuttle he basically does as he pleases – you might want to just plan to walk it!

We also mentioned P4, a 35 minute walk from the edge of Hallstatt. This car park is fine if you are visiting for the day and don’t mind the walk, but isn’t ideal if you have to carry bags to your accommodation for the night. There is also a lovely picnic area at this car park, right on the waters edge. However, despite the distance from town, the prices at P4 are almost identical to P1 and P2 – go figure.

picnic spot next to Hallstatt car park P4

PARKING PRICES

1 hour – €4.50

2 hours – €8

Every subsequent hour costs less and less and between 13-24 hours the price is capped at €18.

THINGS TO DO IN HALLSTATT

Despite its small size there are still plenty of things to do in Hallstatt. We felt like 24 hours was the right amount of time to do it all and here are our top recommendations.

Wander Around Town

It only takes 10 minutes to walk from one edge of town to the other but when you factor in all of the different views and the little alleyways you can discover you could easily while away a couple of hours. Hallstatt really is a fairytale destination and you want to go at a slow pace to take it all in. During the day this isn’t the easiest mission as there are A LOT of tourists about, and that’s why we recommend booking a nights stay – enjoy the evening at your pace and get up early for a coffee by the water. The Lake changes shapes and colours depending on the time of day, and there’s a gorgeous mist sometimes hovering on the water.

Don’t miss the Marketplatz with its colourful buildings and central fountain – it’s the perfect spot to grab a coffee and browse some shops.

Looming over the town, and always in view, is the beautiful church Maria am Berg. Admire the paintings around the alter, appreciate the uniquely ornate graves in the church yard, and make sure you stop by the adjacent Bone House at Hallstatt Charnel House to see the bizarre collection of painted skulls.

Taking the back route of Hallstatt, climbing steps and navigating the bends, lends you the prettiest glimpses through the houses down to the lake Hallstatter See and affords you flashes of local life behind window-boxes and embroidered net curtains.

The view that everybody comes for is at the most northern point of town and despite the crowds wanting a selfie it’s still worth the effort to visit. In fact, after picking up a take-away coffee first thing in the morning, this is where we went to experience the beautiful lake-mist evaporating away – it’s a sight to behold, and even more beautiful when there’s no one around!

Visit The Hallstatt Welterbemuseum

Located in the heart of the village, the Heritage Museum offers a deep dive into Hallstatt’s fascinating past. With exhibits ranging from prehistoric artifacts to mining tools and ancient burial items, it provides a rich context for understanding why Hallstatt is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Open 10am – 6pm every day and only half an hour is needed.

Take A Boat Trip On Lake Hallstatt

Seeing Hallstatt from the water is a must. You can hire a traditional wooden boat, take a ferry from one dock to another, or book a boat tour with a guide.

A row-boat costs approx €10-15 for 30 – 60 minutes and you can take it wherever you please.

The ferry is mainly used to transport visitors arriving by train on the opposite side of the lake but you can take a round trip for €8 and just enjoy the views from the water.

As for guided boat tours, these usually take place in the traditional flat-bottomed Zillen boats and are only available in the summer months. A boatman shares historical and cultural tid-bits with you for about €14 per person.

Have Dinner On The Lake

It’s kind of slim pickings when it comes to places to eat in Hallstatt – you really do get the sense the locals are trying to put people off as much as possible! But there are one or two food stops worth a mention. First of all, if you are staying the night in Hallstatt, there is only one restaurant that takes advantage of the water and it’s called Bräugasthof. Take a seat under the old Chestnut tree in their garden and settle in for some great Austrian fare. It’s no secret that it’s all freshly prepared and with that view you’ll find yourself ordering 3 courses and more so that you just don’t have to leave! Be aware though, it’s cash only again, and because it seems like this is the only place in town with decent reviews, there was a queue of people waiting to be seated. That said, the staff did not rush you and your dinner.

It would be wrong of me to not tell you about a little bakery hut just below our Pension Hallberg apartment – if you’re looking for the best breakfast pastry and coffee in town, you’ll find it here. It’s called Ruhrwerk and everything is baked fresh daily. It’s open from 10am – 6pm and it’s all the cream-puffs, croissants and cakes you could every dream of.

As for drinks in the evening, we didn’t find anything! A peace and calm really does descend on Hallstatt after 6pm which is lovely but it would have been nice to enjoy an aperitif somewhere. Instead we bought some local wine and enjoyed it with the views from our apartment.

Explore The Hallstatt Salt Mine & Skywalk Viewing Platform

Most people visiting Hallstatt also combine a trip with the Salzwelten – one of the oldest salt mines in the world. On the outskirts of town, not far from Car Park 2, a funicular ride takes you up the mountain and deposits you at the entrance to the Hallstatt Salt Mine. From here a guided tour leads you through underground tunnels, salt slides, and even a prehistoric burial site – it’s fascinating stuff! And it’s also really cool to understand the beginnings of Hallstatt – a town cashing in on its salty wealth.

Seeing as you’re up this high, you should definitely take advantage of the Skywalk whilst you visit the mines – a free viewing platform with epic views over Halstatter See and the neighbouring mountains. The platform sits at 1,148 feet and is an unforgettable experience. There’s also a restaurant next door if you’d like lunch with a view.

* It is possible to reach the Skywalk viewing platform without taking the funicular (€24) by either driving 25 minutes (the route takes you behind the mountain) or by hiking from the town below, but as you can imagine this trek isn’t for the feeble-knee’d. A combined funicular and salt mine ticket is usually €43. Tickets are sold at the base of the funicular and it works on a first come, first served basis, so maybe consider doing this tour the day you leave since you will probably need to check out by 10am. You cannot book tickets for the following day.


So in conclusion – is Hallstatt worth visiting? In our opinion, yes! We hope it doesn’t become even more busier in future, and perhaps the town can adapt its infrastructure over time to fix the car parking issues. But whatever the negatives, the positives far outweigh them and spending one night in Hallstatt was one of the absolute highlights of our recent Germany/Austria road trip.

We’d like to take this opportunity to thank our readers – we make a small commission when you book hotels and flights through our links (at no extra cost to you) and this all goes towards the upkeep of this blog. Without you we wouldn’t be able to carry on writing – so, Thank You!

More Posts From Our Germany/Austria Road-Trip…

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Why Garmisch Partenkirchen Should Be Your Next Alpine Escape

The Cheapest & Quickest Way To See Lake Eibsee, Bavaria

3 Days In Berchtesgaden – The Eagles Nest, Salzburg, Konigsee Lake & More

Summer In The Alps – Our 10 Day Itinerary For An Austria & Germany Roadtrip

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