Never before have I ever encountered so many computer geeks wearing Star Wars hoodies in one place!

Before our weekend trip I had visions of Chester being a glamorous city set to the back-drop of old Tudor homesteads and ladies with laminated faces, lunching in fancy restaurants – perhaps I watch a bit too much Real Housewives of Cheshire?

En route to Chester, we passed a whole county of large neo-gothic-Tudor mansions and Bugatti’s sat on driveways next to manicured topiary. Obviously, the area has money, so I was mildly excited about the prospect of spending a couple of days eating fine food and people-watching the rich and famous. Unfortunately for me, it seems that the Coleen’s and Abbey’s of this world prefer the likes of Alderley Edge and Wilmslow, and Chester has been left to folk more in tune with the role-play rules of Dungeons and Dragons than the rules of a good gourmet burger.

Nevertheless, our little 2-night break wasn’t a total disappointment as it completely exceeded my expectations from a historical point of view – and most importantly, there are plenty of things to do in Chester!

WHAT WE’LL COVER IN THIS POST…

• Where we stayed – a great Chester hotel recommendation.
• Some fab things to do in Chester.
• Tried and tested places to eat & drink.
• Some Chester travel tips.

WHERE WE STAYED IN CHESTER

Before we get to our list of Chester attractions, we want to recommend the hotel we stayed at – Hotel Indigo. We’ve stayed at a couple of Indigo hotels across the country and they’ve always lived up to their reputation. Hypnos beds, rainfall showers, great breakfasts and lovely bedroom snacks are just the norm. But we loved the way the modern decor still made nods to the old stories of Chester, and it’s a really bright and colourful hotel. The bar is a nice place to hang out too, and there’s also a double rosette restaurant on-site if you want a posh meal. For this level of quality, the rates aren’t even that high either. We’ll definitely be going back!

For the best rates at Hotel Indigo in Chester, click here.

THINGS TO DO IN CHESTER

We spent 2 nights in the story-book city of the North-West and discovered one thing – there are loads of things to do in Chester…

1. The Rows

I already knew of Chester’s Tudor heritage and it was the pretty black and white buildings which had drawn me in initially. ‘The Rows’ is Chester’s main thoroughfare – a shopping high street that gives you double for your money, named The Rows because each section has an upper and lower level of shops, 2 rows, enclosed in a very ornate walkway. Nowhere else in the world is this unique design to be found and whats more, it totally appeals to my rather inadequate weather-defense-gene : I hate bad weather! Chester was obviously designed by a woman, who loved to keep her shopping bags dry.

2. The Eastgate Clock

Second only to Big Ben is the world’s most photographed clock at the gateway to The Rows. Known as the Eastgate Clock, it sits on top of the old Roman wall, shining in the sun, ready for its thousand daily selfies (this is one of the most popular things to do in Chester). It’s a beaut, and well worth a photograph.

3. Walk The Wall

If I have one piece of advice for your ‘Things to do in Chester’ list, it’s walk the wall. For 2 millennia these walls have protected Chester, since the time when it was a prosperous port town (a fact which blew my mind, being that the nearest stretch of coast now lies 30 miles away). Apparently, the estuary silted up and the only signs of a busy Roman trade route nowadays lie in the remains of architecture that can be spotted from various points on your circular 2 mile wall walk.

4. Chester Cathedral

If you walk clockwise from the Eastgate Clock the first landmark you’ll encounter is the great medieval cathedral, built in 1092. Entrance is free and there are several tours daily to explain this cathedral’s rich history. If you don’t have time for a tour then my highlights would be the architecture in the cloisters, the hand-painted murals in the main church, and a particularly ornate lectern which you can’t miss; the golden eagle.

Carry on along the walls and you’ll find yourself parallel with the Chester Cathedral Falconry and Nature Gardens, open 10-4 every day. The entrance fee is only £3 but from the city walls you get a free elevated vantage of the flying displays that take place, with Eagles, Falcons, Hawks and even a comedy vulture.

5. The ‘Sick To Death’ Museum

You learn a lot about society by the way it treats its sick and poor and this museum on the city walls endeavours to share with you some of Chester’s history through its use of medicines and the health of the townsfolk. Some of it is pretty gory and some of it is pretty gruesome but I’m always up for a bit of blood and guts so the prospect of killing an hour or two reliving medical history through sight, smell and touch is always going to appeal to me. With a brucey bonus of an original and working camera obscura at the top of the tower, definitely something to consider if you are looking for things to do in Chester. Admission £4.74, £2.75 for kids over 5.

6. Chester Racecourse

Officially the oldest racecourse still in use in the country and the reason why your little ones call horses ‘geegee’s’ – Mayor Henry Gee gave the initial consent for the first race back in February 1539! But this spot was once a harbour for tall ships and following that – a football pitch for some of the bloodiest and violent games of football history. Again, the vantage point from the walls is a great free spectator spot for the horse racing and celebrity spotting. Tickets start at £10.

7. The River Dee

Follow the walls around to the left, past the university and you can take the most pleasant of strolls along the River Dee. College boaters practice for races alongside some of the boat-tour companies whilst folk walk their dogs and children chase squirrels on the banks of the river. There are several pretty bridges along this stretch and the cafe The Moorings and the Riverside Inn, The Boathouse, are ideal spots to stop for an Eccles cake with great views of the river and an opportunity to watch boaters load and unload their racing shells into the Rowing Club next door.  Wet lycra anyone?

8. Chesters Roman Amphitheatre

Cut back to the walls, behind the Suspension Bridge, past the Church of John The Baptist, but not before you’ve stood a little and marvelled at the remains of Britain’s largest Roman Amphitheatre. Built 2000 years ago it would have been used for military practice and entertainment, or knowing the Romans – both at the same time!

Remarkably, after homes were built directly on top of it in Medieval Britain, the site was only discovered and excavated in the 1950’s and more of Chester’s rich history was pieced together, the thought of it being a prosperous and influential port town became even more apparent.

I was absolutely impressed by the amount of information plaques in and around Chester, detailing some of the city’s heritage and history. It made for an interesting and informative few days and really enhanced our visit, well done Chester Borough Council!

9. Chester’s Best Restaurants and Bars

Like I said earlier, I was mostly disappointed by the lack of good places to eat in Chester despite the wealth that seemingly surrounds the area, or maybe Nottingham just spoils me too much. That said, we did discover a few pearls and I’ll happily share them with you;

The Old Boot Inn

Dating back to 1643, this is the kind of traditionally English drinking hole that Americans rub their knees at. No frills, authentic and atmospheric. It’s situated at 9 Eastgate Row and boy has this place seen some stories! Don’t order food, this is definitely a place to just enjoy a pint alongside the locals, and you’ll no doubt strike up a conversation as they’re a friendly bunch and most of the seats face inwards like they’re awaiting a cock-fight to begin – it’s hard to avoid eye contact with a seating arrangement like this. Great place!

The Brewery Tap

A Jacobean hall from the 1600s which once gave hospitality to King Charles I before a battle in the Civil War. Previously owned by the Gamuls, a wealthy merchant family of Chester, this pub now boasts the best selection of cask ales in town. And the grub is good too, freshly prepared and from local growers and suppliers – these guys take pride in their hospitality and it’s a definite consideration if you’re after a hearty meal. I love the fact that it’s still traditionally decorated and no one has tried to convert it to gastro pub tastes.

The Architect

The Architect is a Georgian home and garden room overlooking the racecourse. An unpretentious Gastro pub that clearly likes to serve British food but isn’t scared to merge the flavours with foreign influences. This is a menu that you may find hard to conquer, there is so much choice and it all sounds wonderful! The setting is beautiful but it lends itself to both casual and intimate dining. Mains range from £12 – £20 and it’s a popular spot so booking is advisable.

The Botanist

I’ve been in a few Botanists across the country and they never fail to impress. If you merged a junk yard, an antique apothecary and high-end florist you may possibly create something along the lines of one of these bars. They’re beautiful and raw and ultimately serve the best array of Botanical cocktails to a soundtrack of live music (every night) with a large helping of ‘I’ll have what he’s having’ menu. Or, you could just nibble on a bowl of chipolatas and save yourself for one of their most indulgent desserts. The Botanist in Chester is an easy win for me and the low lighting makes is a choice for just drinks and background (musical) entertainment.

TRAVEL TIPS FOR VISITING CHESTER

• Check what’s on before you visit. Events at Chester Racecourse or festivals in the city can affect prices, crowds, and availability.
• Arrive by train. There is little parking within the old walls, but Chester train station is only a ten minute walk to the historic centre, which makes it a great city break without a car.
• Ditch the heels. Much of Chester is cobbled streets – make sure you’ve packed the right footwear!

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Like I said, Chester didn’t disappoint and I hope you’ve been inspired to visit too. There are plenty of things to do in Chester, even if it didn’t scratch my posh-people-watching itch.

And, I’d love to hear of more great places to eat so drop me a line if you have any recommendations.

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