COLOGNE, GERMANY
Often called Germany’s most laid back city, Cologne is a place where humour, tolerance, and a live-and-let-live attitude matter more than rules or appearances. Centuries of openness and diversity, along with its famously relaxed way of life, creates an easygoing attitude that shows up everywhere. From its beer culture to its colourful streets, it has the most welcoming atmosphere conducive for a fun city break.
Add to that its collection of superlatives; from the world’s tallest cathedral and the perfume that gave cologne its name, to Europe’s largest Pop Art collection, Lindt chocolate, and the famously social Kölsch beer system, Cologne is definitely a place full of unexpected highlights.
But if you’ve never visited before, and you only have a weekend to see the sights, how do you decide what to do in Cologne? Let us help you with your weekend plans…
What To Do In Cologne On Your First Time In The City
We’ve spent several weekends in Cologne over the last few years and there’s definitely some places we return to each time. Plus there are a couple of Cologne attractions, restaurants and neighbourhoods that really reveal the essence of Cologne that you don’t want to miss.
In this article we’ll cover;
- Our favourite places to stay in Cologne
- What to do in Cologne – a 2 day itinerary
- Some Cologne travel tips
Where To Stay In Cologne…
City breaks can be a little bit hectic by nature but we think 2 days in Cologne is enough to get a good enough feel for this laid-back, joyful, and beautifully gothic city. It might be Germany’s 4th biggest city and it is a city of two halves, split by the Rhine River, but the transport system is good and it’s still pretty compact to conquer at a leisurely pace in 2 days.
We have stayed in 2 hotels in Cologne and can honestly recommend both.
Art’otel Cologne is right by the chocolate factory with fantastic views of the river from the bedrooms and is a really stylish and cool place to stay that also won’t break the bank.
For the best deals at Art’otel Cologne, click here
Alternatively, you could try the Limehome Köln Friesenplatz apartments on the edge of the trendy Belgian Quarter neighbourhood. We’ve stayed at a few Limehome apartments around Europe now and we’re always impressed by the attention to detail. The kitchen is fully equipped and there are loads of complimentary goodies like coffees and treats and even a cool tote bag and coffee cup.
For the best deals at Limehome Köln Friesenplatz apartments, click here
What To Do In Cologne – Day 1
In short…
- Have breakfast at the Grand Cafe, Lindt Museum
- Visit the Schokoladen Museum (Lindt Museum)
- Wander the colourful ‘Old Quarter’
- Try out a few Beer Halls for lunch and Kolsch
- Hit the shopping streets
- Dinner at Fruh Am Dom
BREAKFAST AT THE GRAND CAFE
Start your day in Cologne with the sweetest breakfast you can get your sticky paws on at the Chocolat Grand Cafe. As part of the Schokoladen Museum owned by Lindt, you can purchase your tickets, check in your coats at the cloakroom and be ready to take a seat as the cafe opens at 10am. By the time you’ve finished your waffles or fruit fondue you can smugly skip the queues to the museum and enter with a full belly and less temptation to eat everything in sight!
The Grand Cafe is right on the river and the full glass front grants you one of the prettiest views to enjoy your coffee. There’s also an outside terrace if the sun is out.
VISIT THE SCHOKOLADEN MUSEUM
Whilst we all know we’re only there for the freebies and a shot at the famous chocolate fountain, there’s no denying that the museum does a pretty stellar job of interpreting 5000 years of chocolate history. Weave your way around interactive displays, a micro-rainforest, informative models, and the mini chocolate factory where you get to watch workers genuinely create Lindt products.
You will definitely leave with a greater appreciation of the cocoa bean and the industry that serves our sweet palate. You’ll probably also leave the gift shop with a big box of multi-flavoured Lindor chocolates too if you’re anything like us. Pistachio Lindor… need I say more?
TIP: You really do need to get in early with this museum, it’s one of the most popular Cologne attractions for all ages.
VISIT THE OLD QUARTER
In World War 2 sadly 95% of Cologne city was bombed. The beautiful buildings which still remain from the Gothic era can be found in the Old Quarter just along the river from the Chocolate Museum.
Cologne Old Town is fronted by a row of prettily painted buildings adjacent to the Rhine known as the Fischmarkt, no doubt you’ve made their acquaintance on Instagram. There’s also a healthy number of cafes and restaurants at the Fischmarkt, claiming the pavements and cashing in on the views. Hang around for a while and absorb the atmosphere, but don’t take a seat just yet. We suggest you wind your way through some of the old narrow alleyways to the heart of Cologne Old Town known as the Alter Market – it’s time for some Kolsch!
KOLSCH IT UP IN COLOGNE
No Cologne city break would be complete without a bit of Kölsch!
Kölsch is a light and crisp beer native to Cologne and the foundation of the city’s Brauhaus culture. Every Brauhaus (or Beer Hall) in the Alter Market will be competing for your custom and my advice… try them all! Well maybe not all of them, but since each Brauhaus brews its own and each Kölsch is only 200ml, surely you’ve got to give it a good go? Be warned though, when you’ve finished your drink you need to cap it with the beer mat, otherwise the server will keep bringing you refills. The beer mat is also their way of calculating the bill as they mark down your drinks on it. If you’re getting a bit peckish by this point, the Beer Halls are a good place to find some traditional snacks too. You could try a Halve Hahn – Germany’s answer to the cheese and onion sandwich, or a Frankfurter. But don’t fill up too much – we’ve got a belter of a suggestion for dinner this evening!
Our favourite Brauhaus in Cologne Old Town was Brauerei Pfaffen in the corner of the Square, but to be honest, they all have their charm.
Finish up your wander of Cologne Old Town, there are lots of fountains and monuments, then make your way towards Schildergrasse.
SHOPPING IN COLOGNE
The High Street might be almost dead in the UK but it seems Germany still has shopping nailed. Schildergrasse has the usual High Street favourites, Ehrenstrasse is lined with trendy boutiques, and Mittelstrasse is home to the luxury brands. Whatever your budget there’s a bit of Cologne shopping for everyone.
TIP: Cologne still holds to Sunday trading rules and the shops are closed, so if you are planning a city break to Cologne on the weekend, keep this in mind.
DINNER AT A FRUH AM DOM
If you do nothing else from this Cologne itinerary, please promise me you’ll at least book a table at Fruh Am Dom. This was the best Brauhaus we visited in Cologne, in fact, we’ve been back multiple times. There’s something about the buzzing atmosphere of folk gathered to break bread with friends in a setting that you know has seen some history! It’s been a beer hall since 1904 and the innards are an eclectic mix of vaulted ceilings, stone cellars, grand panelled dining rooms, and a glass-roofed terrace. Together they create a fascinating maze of one jolly dining room after another, after another.
During the daytime it’s easier to get a seat as a ‘walk-in’, but you’ve got no chance in the evening – you must book! This is where those in the know come for dinner. And, to say how never-ending the place is that just emphasises how popular this Brauhaus gets.
You’re going to eat traditional German fare; Bratwurst, Snitzel, and pork knuckle served by waiters of an older generation who still value good service. And, you’ll be drinking their own brewery’s Kolsch of course.
The restaurant is open from 11 am till midnight every day, which makes it a great option for somewhere to eat outside of traditional lunch and dinner hours. We’d like to suggest you eat dinner early so that you can enjoy our next Cologne attraction before it closes at 8pm…
SUNSET AT THE COLOGNE TRIANGLE
The Cologne Triangle is across the Rhine River from where you’ve spent the day and is one of the most popular Cologne tourist attractions. It closes at 8pm but that leaves you more than enough time to do a bit of Cologne sightseeing from way up high. The Koln Triangle is an observation deck 29 stories high, perfectly positioned to see the city you have just been exploring. It also has the best views of the Dom and if you’re lucky you might catch an incredible Cologne sunset with those Gothic twin spires in it.
It’s only a 15 minute walk across Cologne’s lovelock bridge (Hohenzollern Bridge) between The Triangle and The Dom.
Finish the first day of your Cologne city break with a stroll along the river on the same side as The Triangle. This stretch is known as the Rheinpromenade and is also a great place to catch the sunset over the city from a much quieter perspective.
What To Do In Cologne – Day 2
In short…
- Have breakfast with the locals at Kaffeesaurus
- Check out the worlds largest collection of Pop-Art at Museum Ludwig
- Visit The Dom – Cologne’s ginormous twin-spired cathedral
- Have lunch at Peter’s Brauhaus
- Learn about the birth of perfume at the Farina Duft Museum (Fragrance Museum)
- Finish your Cologne trip with a visit to the Sculpture Park
BREAKFAST AT KAFFEESAURUS
Book yourselves a table at the Cologne-famous Kaffeesaurus or you may have to stand in line and wait with all of the other locals who’ve cycled in from the suburbs for their morning feast. But why all of the hype? Put simply, this is the most phenomenal brunch spot in Cologne! The menu is extensive, the coffee is goooood and the ingredients are top-notch – organic this, seasonal that. You catch my drift.
Right, that’s you ready to soak up more Cologne attractions!
VISIT MUSEUM LUDWIG
Cologne has its fair share of museums, many dedicated to art. There’s East Asian Art, Applied Arts, Medieval Art, Glass Art, and Impressionist Art but the one we like best is the Ludwig Museum.
The Ludwig Museum has Europe’s largest collection of Pop Art and the world’s 3rd largest display of Picasso’s. It’s modern art at its finest with an eclectic selection of artists from the last 125 years. You’ll find Dali’s, Mondrian’s, Hockney’s, and Klee’s all under one roof!
And speaking of roofs – head up to the deck for a major close-up of The Dom next door.
But, if modern art isn’t your bag, you could always visit the Sport & Olympia Museum or the Romano-Germanic Archaeological Museum (set to reopen in Summer 2023 after some major renovations).
As we mentioned though, you’ve very close to Cologne Cathedral so we think it’s about time you take a look…
THE DOM
No bit of Cologne sightseeing would be complete without a visit to Germany’s most visited landmark, The Dom Cathedral.
It’s the tallest twin-spired cathedral in the world, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and probably the biggest looking church you’re ever going to see. It draws in 20,000 visitors a day and interestingly could also hold that amount of people too – so you don’t need to worry too much about the door getting jammed shut now!
Many visitors are on a pilgrimage to see the relics of the Three Kings of biblical fame but many more are simply here to see its grandeur. Or the largest hanging bell in the world – whatever floats your boat. No matter your reasons though, you cannot fail to stare in wonder at this colossal piece of blackened gothicness.
NOTE: The Dom Cathedral is only open between 1pm and 4pm on a Sunday due to services.
SUNDAY LUNCH IN COLOGNE
We did originally check the Michelin Guide for some BIB restaurant choices in Cologne and whilst there were plenty of options we would’ve been happy to sample, many places are closed on a Sunday. But no worries, we still found a gem of a Brauhaus to recommend to you, and one that has earned a reputation with the locals.
Beer halls can get a little rowdy on Sundays, with weekend drinkers and football crowds, but Peters Brahaus was a more civilised affair than some of the others. You will probably need to book though.
We recommend the Beer Menu which is comprised of Rhenish Potato Soup, Beef in beer stew with dumplings and a dessert of Bieramisu (basically tiramisu made German!). It cost €33, which for the quality of the food and the delightful atmosphere we thought was a steal.
And on to your final afternoon in Cologne…
A TOUR OF THE FRAGRANCE MUSEUM – FARINA DUFTMUSEUM
At 2pm and 3pm on a Sunday afternoon the Farina Duftmuseum puts on an English tour like no other!
Reincarnated, Mr Johann Maria Farina, the inventor of perfume in 1709, takes you around his offices and perfumery and lets you into a few little Cologne secrets. This is the birthplace of perfume per se, and a fascinating story in a fascinating building. You leave with your senses overloaded and a selfie with the guy himself! Oh, and a little sample of the world’s first perfume, worn by Napoleon during the French Revolution.
It’s the quaintest thing and well worth the €12 entrance fee.
NOTE: If your 2 days in Cologne happen to be midweek, you can still tour the museum (€8) but you don’t get the historical actor in costume. Such a shame but I guess he’s busy concocting new fragrances Monday to Friday.
COLOGNE SCULPTURE PARK
Regular readers of the blog will know I can never pass up an opportunity for a bit of Anish Kapoor. Perhaps you’ve never heard of him and truth be told neither had I until Nottingham installed the Sky Mirror, but his works of art are a treat. He’s the guy responsible for The Bean in Chicago btw.
Anyway, Cologne has some works of his, along with other famous sculptors, and it’s free to roam. The Cologne Sculpture Park is a great finale to a great weekend in Cologne, especially if the weather is pleasant and you’re keen to walk off some of those German dumplings you’ve been devouring.
It’s a good 30 minute walk from the Fragrance Museum or you can shorten the journey by taking line 16 or 18 on the Metro from Koln Hbf Station.
Cologne Travel Tips
- Visiting Cologne, Germany, really couldn’t be easier – several UK airports have multiple flight options, including budget airline Ryanair, plus the flight is only 1 hour.
- The airport is called Cologne Bonn airport (CGN) and is situated equidistant between both Bonn and Cologne. Bonn is another fabulous German city, making a dual-destination trip a very viable option.
- Take a train transfer to the centre of Cologne from under the terminal on the S Bahn. The trip takes 12 – 15 minutes.
- The best time to visit Cologne; Spring (April – June) – milder weather, cheaper prices, fewer crowds. Summer (July & August) – Lively and warmer, but more crowds and more expensive. Autumn (September & October) – Cooler, calmer, great for beer halls. Winter (November & December) – Christmas Markets but cold and busy. Carnival Season (February & March) – Incredibly fun or overwhelming — book early or avoid if you want calm.
- Cash is still king in Germany – many bars and bakeries don’t accept cards. ATM’s are easy to find though.
- There is need to hire a car – Cologne is flat, compact and very walkable.
- Shops close early on Saturdays and most are closed fully on Sundays.
- Almost everyone speaks excellent English, and locals are very friendly.
And if you need reminding of our top hotel recommendations…
The Limeholm Apartments in the trendy area of Cologne for cafes and bars.
The stylish, yet budget-friendly, Art’otel, right on the river.
So there you have it – our top recommendations of what to do in Cologne if you’re visiting for the weekend. The best sights, attractions and places to eat and drink.
And, if you are ready to book those flights, check out Skyscanner for the best deals no matter where you are flying from…
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