Florence is a treasure trove of masterpieces and cultural gems. Read any travel guide on what to do in Florence and you start wondering if you should scrap the weekend plans in exchange for a 3 month visa! It’s like an overflowing sweetie jar for art historians, Italy enthusiasts, and selfie-snappers.
So how do you decide what to do in Florence when there is just so much choice and time is finite?
Well, here are our highlights of Florence – the jewel of Tuscany and the birthplace of the Renaissance. The must see sights in Florence and the ones we think are worth skipping…
What To Do In Florence – The Delights, The Disappointments & The Realities
As second-time visitors, and real fans of Florence, we think there’s a good and a bad way of sightseeing in Florence. The crowds are a reality, and Instagram has totally done a solid on some businesses and photogenic locations. So we’ve put together a list of our non-negotiable must-see sites in Florence, how best to see them, and the foodie spots worth the hype.
There is soo much to see and do when you visit Florence, so hopefully we can help you sift out some worthy contenders. A Florence itinerary that gives you the most bang for your buck.
1. Stay In Santo Spirito (A.K.A. Oltrarno)
This is a non-negotiable for me – staying in the neighbourhood of Florence called Santo Spirito gives you the most authentic experience of living like an Italian. Small family-run businesses, after-work aperitivo’s with Florentines, small churches that have been serving the neighbours for centuries, and a local vibe that you just don’t find across the river in more central Florence.
It’s also the most perfect place to wander in the middle of the day if you’re fed up with the crowds around the Duomo, and there’s definitely plenty to explore and some fantastic local places to eat…
- Check out the local flea market before 11am week days at Piazza Santo Spirito.
- Florence invented the Negroni and we had the best one at ‘Volume’ in Piazza Santo Spirito.
- Visit the Basilica di Santo Spirito for a glimpse into the life of a young Michelangelo. He spent time with the monks here, particularly the adjoining Refectory, dissecting bodies from the convents mortuary for anatomical research. As a gift to the monks he carved them the crucifix at age 17 which now hangs in the church.
- Piazza della Passera is another favourite square of ours to hang out in for aperitivos and gelatos – you can’t visit Florence without a cone from Gelateria Della Passera.
- The Church of Santa Maria del Carmine has the Cappella Brancacci which is a little museum dedicated to Masaccio (Michelangelo’s teacher) and his beautiful fresco’s.
- Try some amazing Tuscan wines at Le Volpie l’Uva and get a free plate of great tapas with every drink.
- You can visit the Pitti Palace in Santo Spirito although the price of tickets for everything in Florence can mount up, and once you’ve seen one European Palace you’ve kinda seen them all 😉 However, the adjoining Boboli Gardens are a Florence highlight and a €10 ticket gets you more statues, fountains, grottoes and city viewpoints than even the Medici could appreciate.
- On weekdays 9am – 2pm you’ll get a real treat with a visit to Studio Galleria Romanelli – a beautiful sculpture studio that’s been in the same familiy for 200 years. Sadly I couldn’t fit the £17,000 horse’s head in my stipulated Ryanair hand-luggage.
- And lastly, you may have affogato’s, wine windows, Schiacciate sanwiches, Bistecca Florentina and other local delicacies on your ‘must-do-in-Florence’ list and have some famous places lined up to try them. Let me save you the trouble; Florence heaves under the strain of Instagram and if it’s popped up in your feed there will be queue’s a mile long. However, Santo Spirito has all of those things, without the crowds and still enjoyed by locals. Can you tell how much we love Santo Spirito?
WHERE TO STAY IN FLORENCE
Oltrarno is a neighbourhood stuffed with palaces. Aristocratic families, and later prestigious craftsmen and merchants, favoured this side of the river as the Pitti Palace was a powerful status magnet. Thankfully many of these noble residences still remain and many of the palaces are now beautiful hotels. Here are some of our favourite…
OUR FAVOURITE – HOTEL LA SCALETTA (MID RANGE)
Regular readers of our blog will know that we’re suckers for a rooftop bar! We just love a good view and this was initially what drew us in with La Scaletta. However, despite the fact that we did love the rooftop terrace for aperitivos, there were even more pro’s to this hotel that we weren’t banking on and we thoroughly enjoyed our stay.
The location goes without saying because we’d always recommend staying in Oltrarno/Santo Spirito, but I loved the history of the building too, especially the Medici corridor connection. And the pretty garden courtyard was lovely to unwind in as well.
This is Italy though, and with old buildings often come a whole host of complications worth mentioning. The lift only fits 2 people, the plumbing isn’t the best, the floors can be creaky and uneven, and some of the rooms are a little small. But it’s something we’ve come to expect from this rustic land and we don’t begrudge it really. That said, the staff were delightful, the food we did try was delicious, and the beds were very comfortable. For the mid-range price you pay, we think La Scaletta is spot on.
For the best rates at La Scaletta, click here.
A MORE BUDGET-FRIENDLY OPTION
If you’re looking for a budget hotel in Florence then we’d like to recommend BNB Frescoes Rooms San Frediano. From as little as £100 a night (which is pretty rare in Florence let me tell you!) you can stay in a cute little Florentine traditional home decorated with some stunning frescoes. It’s quaint, the owners are super friendly and helpful, and it’s in an area of Oltrarno where great restaurants come as standard. Be sure to go to Bar Nici a few streets away for a glass of local vino or a cocktail that doesn’t cost the earth and the owner actually enjoys talking with his punters.
For the best rates at BNB Frescoes Rooms, click here.
IF WES ANDERSON WAS STAYING IN FLORENCE (£270 – £500 P/N)
If Wes were looking for a hotel in Florence, it would be the lobby of Palazzo Guadagni where he’d be dropping his leather portmanteau off. The whimsical vintage details of this gorgeously antique hotel feel like a bit of a curated film set, but it’s as authentic as it comes. I love the pastel retro bathrooms, the large draped windows, the terracotta floors and painted detailing, the potted plants and of course the loggia terrace.
This is a hotel where the front desk remember your name and they’re genuinely interested in whether everything is OK. One thing I will say though is that the loggia has become extremely popular with tourists and the afternoons can be quite busy as a result. But having such a beautiful terrace with those views is bound to attract attention, and when you’re a guest at the hotel you’ll have it to yourselves at breakfast and in the evening, so no worries.
For the best deals at Palazzo Guadagni, click here.
2. See The David by Michelangelo
Not the replica in Piazza Della Signoria or the other replica in Piazzale Michelangelo, see the real thing. The piece of art that took Michelangelo more than 2 years to complete. The masterpiece that was carved from a piece of Carrara marble several other artists had deemed too hard to work with, including Leonardo Da Vinci. The 17 foot statue that will make you cry it’s so beautiful.
Don’t get me wrong, the other two are significant – one standing in the exact spot the original did in Piazza Della Signoria, and surrounded by other politically and culturally significant sculptures. And a bronze cast of the original in Piazzale Michelangelo where you will definitely want to see the Florence sunset from one evening. But you absolutely must buy tickets to see the original at Galleria dell’Accademia.
Book in advance to avoid disappointment, and expect big crowds – there’s just no way of avoiding them sadly. The later in the day you can make it the quieter it is but it’s still not quiet. And the rest of the museum is worth a peruse too, if only for 10 minutes. Be sure to check out the unfinished Michelangelo’s that lead you to his masterpiece as the rough, elementary chisel marks really bring home the skill involved.
To book basic tickets and/or tours, click here.
3. Visit The Duomo
Now whether you book tickets to climb the Duomo and see Vasari’s impressive Last Judgment scene in the dome and take in the views across Florence, or even if you just visit the insides of the Cathedral for free, seeing the Duomo is a ‘must do’ in Florence.
Brunelleschi’s groundbreaking piece of engineering and architecture IS the silhouette of Florence. No matter which Florentine hill you find yourself on, the Duomo dominates the skyline. And up close the details are magnificent. From the stunning polychrome marble facade in shades of green, pink, and white, to the intricate Gothic arches and delicate carvings that adorn every surface, the Duomo is a masterpiece of craftsmanship. The skill of those Renaissance artisans was just incredible.
If you just want the free version it’s worth waking early to get to the Duomo before the crowds arrive. Take some time to circle it and inspect the details (including the white tiled circle amongst the cobblestones of Piazza del Duomo where the golden ball fell after lightning struck it in 1492) then join the queue about 10am and you’ll soon be let in after 10.15.
If you want to take a tour we’d recommend later on in the day. The tower and the dome are both open until 7pm and the evening colours are beautiful up there. Plus, the crowds have thinned a bit at that time of day as the day-trippers start to leave.
4. See The Ponte Vecchio Bridge
Another famous landmark of Florence and somewhere you must see at least once (although if you stay in Santo Spirito you’ll cross it multiple times) is the Ponte Vecchio Bridge. As one of the oldest stone bridges in Europe it has a fascinating backstory, and is very unique in appearance – like a child had a school project to make a bridge and raided the recycle bin for building materials!
There was no grand architectural plan for the Ponte Vecchio – the bridge just evolved as merchants and Medici carved their place into the passageway over the Arno River. It was once prime riverside real estate for butchers and fishmongers but Duke Ferdinand couldn’t stand the smell and developed a plan which would shape Florence’s ‘Bridge of Gold’. With a growing reputation as a refined Renaissance capital, Ferdinand decreed only reputable goldsmiths and jewellers could set up shop, and the directive is the same today.
Another fascinating piece of history attached to the bridge, and one that weaves its way through Florence, is the Vasari Corridor. Look above the shops and you’ll see a covered walkway that eventually links the Pitti Palace with Palazzo Vechio, built solely for the Medici to reach their place of work without the fear of being murdered! Times were politically tense back then and those guys weren’t risking anything. Plus, they could keep an eye on the city while remaining unseen. It’s over 1 km long in total and was built in just 5 months.
5. Admire Florence At Sunset
With just enough time for dinner beforehand (most trattorias open around 7pm) one of the best things to do in Florence is to make your way up to one of two viewpoints with a bottle of wine for the perfect sunset. As the south side of the Arno climbs up to roughly 500 feet, both Piazzale Michelangelo and Forte San Miniato offer some great vistas over Florence and the Hills of Fiesole.
Piazzale Michelangelo is the busier spot and you’ll be hip to hip with other young romantics as you watch that big ball of fire turn the sky pink, but the atmosphere is buzzing for sure.
Alternatively, climb a little higher and watch Florence bathed in orange light from the San Miniato Fort with far fewer crowds. And if you’re lucky you might hear the monks singing Gregorian chants too. It’s all very romantic! (If you do choose the fort, it’s worth seeing the mosaics and frescoes of the Basilica. And Pinocchio’s creator is buried in the graveyard as well.)
6. Have Coffee At Rivoire
But go early!
We had so many food and drink spots that we wanted to visit on our weekend in Florence but many have been ruined by the sheer amount of people wanting to experience the same places, and Rivoire could fall into that category. However, coffee in Italy is a ritual and it’s worth getting up early to enjoy this custom with the locals.
Caffe Rivoire is an institution in Florence, founded in 1872 by a royal chocolatier, and is our favourite place for a cappuccino. The old world elegance of the polished wood and mirrors inside, complimented by the free sculpture museum that is Piazza della Signoria outside, makes it all feel so theatrical. And if you get there pre 10am you can order your coffee at the bar and stand with old ladies and their dogs, or policemen and their pistols. Alternatively you can savour the experience with a seat in the cafe and order the famously rich hot chocolate which propelled Rivoire into social acceptance.
Don’t worry too much about the timings though, Rivoire has plenty of seating both inside and out on the Piazza where you can savour a hot drink with a great spot of people watching. We just prefer it in a quieter moment when you can still spot a Florentine enjoying their daily ritual. P.S. Be sure to use their bathrooms 😉
7. Find A Wine Window
Another Florentine custom worth muzzling in on is the Wine Window, or buchette del vino. Dotted across the city, these tiny arched hatches in grand palazzo walls date back to the 16th century, when noble families would sell wine directly to the public – no middlemen, no taverns, just a quick knock and a filled flask passed through the wall.
Oddly enough it took Covid to resurrect this custom when we weren’t allowed indoors, but standing in the street with your glass of Tuscan wine feels very historic still. Almost a bit secretive, like you’ve stumbled across something not entirely meant for you! You’ll usually find a small queue, a handwritten menu, and a glass of wine handed out through a hole barely bigger than your hand.
It’s uniquely Florentine and makes you feel connected to the city’s bygone age.
8. Go To Il Mercato Centrale
Another easy win in Florence is a visit to Mercato Centrale, but how you approach it makes all the difference.
The upstairs food hall is busy and a bit chaotic, especially at midday, but it’s great for a wander. Think of it more as inspiration than destination, with everything from pasta to truffle counters competing for your attention (and sometimes the odd taster thrown in for free).
But downstairs is where it feels more grounded: a proper market with butchers, bakers and small counters tucked around the edges. If you’re hungry, skip the upstairs and hover around the periphery of the ground floor instead. You’ll find simpler, more rustic plates and it’s less polished, but it’s more local, cheaper, and you can actually hear the your lunchtime conversation.
9. Take A Tour Of Florence
Pasta making, wine tasting, art tours, history tours, food tours or Medici tours – whatever your tastes, spending an hour or two immersed in some sort of Florentine culture will definitely make you feel more at home in this enigmatic city. There are just so many stories and interesting facts about Florence and one of the best ways of finding out how they’re all woven into the city is to do it with a guide or local. Here are a few of our favourites if you’re looking to organise your day in Florence…
- A pasta cooking class with wine. Take it late afternoon and that’s dinner sorted for you! Learn to make 3 types of pasta with an Italian chef in the ancient tower that belonged to Dante’s in-laws. It’ll no doubt become one of the highlights of your trip.
- We’ve already said you need to see Florence at sunset, well why not do it in a golf cart with a tour guide. You’ll get some great Florence stories, see some hidden gems of Florence you wouldn’t see any other way, and end up at the sunset vantage points without having to make the climb!
- For a complete picture of Florence and all its cultural wonders and Medici history we can recommend this small-group walking tour with a local historian. Do it early on in your trip and you’ll always be able to refer back to your new education and everything makes way more sense on the rest of your Florence trip. Our guide pointed out a few local secret spots too which was extremely useful later on.
10. Some of Our Other Favourite Spots
Not necessarily bucket-list items but definitely places we would recommend you go if you’re searching for first-hand recommendations;
- You will no doubt see marbled paper being sold in stationary shops and bookshops across Florence and that’s because this beautiful tradition has been intertwined in Florentine bookbinding for centuries. Head over to Riccardo Luci on Via del Parione to watch the process in motion and pick up a lovely souvenir whilst you’re at it. There are many other places to see it in Florence but we liked this place the most.
- Hang out on the south side of the Arno River late afternoon/early evening. Whether you’re sat on the walls with a gelato, or in some posh rooftop terrace or riverside bar, there’s a lovely chilled vibe here and it’s also a great spot to watch the rowers through Spring and Summer. Definitely one of our favourite things to do In Florence.
- Dinner at Osteria Antica Mescita in San Niccolo is the perfect choice if you’re planning to see Florence at sunset from one of the vantage points. It’s great value for money but the food was AMAZING! We tried the wild boar pasta, the Florentine Steak and the pear and chocolate cake and everything was perfect. You can eat outside or indoors in the 11th century crypt.
- When the crowds get a bit much (and they will), head to a secret little cafe above the Museo Degli Innocenti on Piazza della Santissima. Service is slow but the outdoor terrace has rooftop views and a glimpse of the Duomo so you can just sit a while and take it all in. The cappuccino’s are good and it’s a welcome break from the hordes of people. There’s no need to pay the entrance fee, just take the lift up to the 5th floor.
- Due to some recent viral social media exposure Florence seems to have become the global epicentre of the classic Italian treat – the affogato. And everyone heads to Vivoli mostly. But honestly, you’ll find them in more than a few establishments across Florence without the mile long queues. Try David La Gelateria, or Gelateria dei Neri instead, and maybe have the pistachio flavour too.
- Our favourite spritzes at aperitivo time were from Bulli & Balene, not least because they could be paired with a plate of cicchetti. But also because you were drinking with the vibrant youth of Florence and for a moment we felt young again. Plus, it’s on the prettiest Italian square where life just felt so beautifully vivid and energetic.
- And finally, our favourite pizza’s were from Lo Sprone – perfectly constructed and delivered by welcoming waiters. Providing you made an effort with them though that is – we saw a few miserable tables be mocked behind their backs.
The Stuff We’d Not Bother With Again
Not everything is worth rushing to book tickets for in Florence – some things have received way more hype than they deserve. But stick to our above list and you’ll feel like you’ve experienced a true representation of the city. There are so many things to do in Florence you can’t possibly see it all. But here are a few things we wouldn’t bother with again…
- THE UFFIZI – I know I’m going to receive some flack for this one as the Uffizi is the worlds largest collection of Renaissance masterpieces. From Leonardo da Vinci and Michelangelo, to Botticelli and Caravaggio. But I’m just not that into Renaissance art, so sue me! Besides, when you’re from the UK it’s hard not to resent having to pay for a museum. For me I’d rather see art in its natural habitat – a palace or a church – and admire it for longer without feeling like you’re on a conveyor belt of paintings. TIP: If you love Renaissance art, visit Rome and catch some of the greats in churches people don’t even know are there.
- RESTAURANTS YOU’VE SEEN ON TV – We’d marked a few places to eat from TV programmes such as Stanley Tucci’s Searching For Italy, and Somebody Feed Phil, but we wish we hadn’t bothered. Every place we went to either had a massive queue or a wait list of a week! And the food they tended to be recommending was cooked everywhere. So maybe go with dishes in mind that you want to try rather than actual places. Definitely some sort of dish with wild boar, or a Florentine steak, or even Lampredotto (sheeps stomach) if you’re brave enough! And as for the Focaccia Schiacciata that’s all over instagram – it’s easy to spot a good one a mile off!
- SHOPPING FOR ITALIAN LEATHER – Be careful! Whilst you can absolutely find genuine Italian leather in Florence, it’s not as easy as you think. You’d be better off taking a day trip to Lucca if you are wanting to buy a genuine Italian souvenir for a good price. Street vendors and the outdoor markets such as San Lorenzo are mostly cheap, mass produced exports from China. Most are abusing the legal loophole which allows a product to be finished with an Italian stitch or zip and be passed off as made in Italy.
- DON’T BASE YOUR TRIP AROUND THE MONTHS FIRST SUNDAY. Yes the museums offer free entry and this could save you a lot of money, but in our opinion the resulting queues and extra people who visit do not make for a pleasant experience. Instead, choose one or two museums to see on your Florence trip, pick the best time of day, and pay for them – the event will be far more enjoyable.
Our Handy Florence Travel Tips
Without the right kind of preparation and advance knowledge, a Florence weekend break could turn out to be a complete nightmare, and what a shame that would be since it really is an Italian treasure. So here are a few tips when deciding what to do in Florence and how to navigate the city in the best way…
- Book key tickets in advance. It is possible to book the likes of the Duomo and Arcadia on the day but the queues are brutal and many convenient times are sold out.
- Visit in shoulder season if you can. April – May and September – October are the sweet spots; still warm, but far less intense than the height of summer, when there is very little breeze.
- Get up early. The must see sites in Florence feel completely different without the crowds and it really is worth wandering the streets before 9/10am before the tourists wake up and the day-trippers arrive.
- Stand at the bar for coffee. It’s cheaper, quicker and much more local – sitting down is great occasionally, but you’ll pay for the privilege.
- Wear proper shoes. Florence looks small on a map but the constant wandering (and cobbles) adds up quickly. Even the Italians favour a smart pair of sneakers.
- Bring a reusable water bottle. There are public fountains dotted around the city with drinkable water – handy and saves you constantly buying bottles.
- Slow down slightly. Florence isn’t a city that rewards rushing—leave a bit of space in your plans and you’ll stumble into the best moments.
- Watch for cover charges. Sitting down at cafes and restaurants often comes with a small service or “coperto” fee—it’s normal, but worth knowing so it doesn’t catch you off guard.
So there you go – our ‘must do in Florence’ lists and a few things to avoid too. And if you are still in the planning stages, remember, Santa Spirito is a wonderful neighbourhood to stay in. (Any bookings made through our links makes us a small commission at no extra cost to you and it all helps towards the upkeep of the blog – thank you!)
And if you are visiting Florence as part of a longer Italy trip, maybe some of our other posts could help you out. We have written about…