WROCLAW, POLAND

Here at MyLifeLongHoliday we’re always on the look-out for cheap weekend breaks and affordable luxury travel. The world is full of beautiful and cheap places to visit – you just need to know where to look!

Regular readers will know that this is a bit of a skill of ours, and we’d like to introduce you to our latest find; Wroclaw, Poland.

We recently had a luxury weekend break in Poland’s most beautiful city we’d never heard of and we’re dying to share the details…

In this article we’ll cover;

• Our cheap five star hotel suggestion (think Travelodge prices but swanky luxury living)
• A bit about Wroclaw
• Things to do in Wroclaw
• Our favourite places to eat and drink, including some very affordable fine-dining
• Travel tips for planning your luxury low cost holiday to Wroclaw

WROCLAW

Affordable Luxury Hotels In Wroclaw

There are a handful of inexpensive luxury hotels in Wroclaw and we checked ALL of them out! We wanted a five star hotel in a good location, within the old town, and giving a swanky vibe. Eventually we settled on newly opened The Cyrus Hotel and boy were we impressed!

The smell of new leather greets you in the lobby and you’re hoping check-in is quick because the hotel bar to the right of the lobby looks soo inviting! Everything is brand spankingly new and tearing yourself away from the perfectly cosy bedrooms is a tough exercise – it was just a good job that Wroclaw city was equally attractive otherwise we’d never have ventured outside!

It’s a five star hotel but trust me – we’ve spent more on a Travelodge in the UK than we did on this beautiful hotel (we paid £80pn). And there’s all the added extra’s like a coffee machine in the room, atmospheric lighting, high end furniture, a hotel sauna and gym, and less than a 5 minute walk to the main square in Wroclaw. It’s also the right side of town to take advantage of some of the gorgeous coffee shops for breakfast near the university, AND you’re just across the river from Wyspa Piasek which is handy for the gas-lamp lighting tradition at dusk (more on that later). For the best room rates at The Cyrus, click here.

A Bit About Wroclaw

Wroclaw was not what we were expecting! The grey austerity of communist Poland seems to have slipped through the cracks of an ugly concrete yesteryear and regrown its identity, economy, and charm from the ground up. Nothing was gritty or edgy (like I’d imagined it would be), and there were remarkably few people in tight bleached jeans and puffer jackets!

Instead, we found it to be equally stylish and true to itself. Today it wears its past with pride, and the patchwork of historical moments and local culture define the shape of Wroclaw.

Having belonged to Bohemia, Prussia, Germany then Poland their layered identity is anything but simple. You can feel it in the Gothic churches, baroque townhouses and restored facades that look centuries old but hide post-war resilience beneath their paint. Playful street art, a lively cafe culture, and the hundreds of cheeky dwarfs scattered across Wroclaw quietly celebrate freedom and creativity and it’s a really heartwarming place to find yourself in.

Wroclaw is safe, fun and friendly. The city’s personality is equal parts intellectual, artistic, and mischievous – distinctly Polish, yet proudly cosmopolitan. We loved it and we think you will too.

Things To Do In Wroclaw

There are plenty of things to see in Wroclaw – we spent 3 days in the city and only just managed to squeeze in everything we wanted to do. Helped by the fact of course that food and drink is so cheap here that we stopped off in way more cafes and bars than we usually would. But that was half of the fun!

Tours and museum tickets are also really good value therefore you really do feel like you can do it all – no budgeting your spending-money in this city! So here’s our list of places to visit in Wroclaw…

1. Wieza Matematyczna (The University Museum)

Probably the highlight of our Wroclaw sightseeing was the Wieza Matematyczna museum thats part of the univeristy. We spent way longer in here than I was expecting to but it was just so captivating!

There are several elements to the museum including the Mathematical Tower, the Exposition, Oratorium Marianum and Aula Leopoldina. And then there’s the roof with some fabulous views over Wroclaw! It’s enough to keep you busy for a few hours.

You’ve probably seen photo’s of the painted ceiling in the Aula Leopoldina and some folk visit to just see that (it IS pretty impressive). But, I implore you to buy the ‘4 halls ticket’, which is approximately £5, and explore the whole of the museum – there’s something captivating on each floor. And don’t miss the door to the roof PLEASE, because you’d kick yourself afterwards for missing that particular vista, right next to the river.

Open 10am – 4pm every day except Wednesdays.

2. Take A Tour Of Wroclaw On An Electric Mini Bus

As soon as we saw these cute little electric buses we were desperate to try one. And for only £10 you get a ride around the city for an hour and a half with a private local guide and all the inside intel. It’s fab! Plus, it’s also a great way to hear about Wroclaw’s history AND get a feel for where you are and where you want to revisit later. We definitely recommend taking the tour early on in your Wroclaw trip so that you can get your bearings and also understand the city more when you’re exploring later.

GetYourGuide allow you to keep your plans flexible – book now and pay or amend later.

(Or you could do a walking tour with GetYourGuide if that’s more your thing)

3. Explore The Main Square (Rynek)

Whether you visit in summer, when café terraces spill out onto the square, or in winter, when the famous Wrocław Christmas Market fills it with lights and wooden stalls, Rynek is the beating heart of Wroclaw. It’s one of the largest and most beautiful medieval market squares in all of Europe and has been there since the 13th century.

The square’s focal point is the Gothic Old Town Hall (Ratusz) which is an extraordinary, ornate building that looks almost like a fairy-tale castle. Its intricate façade, astronomical clock, and decorative details are worth a slow walk-around. Inside, you’ll find the Wrocław City Museum with exhibits on the city’s layered history, from medieval Silesia to post-war Poland. Don’t miss the Piwnica Świdnicka, a historic cellar tavern beneath the Town Hall that’s been serving beer since the 14th century — one of the oldest restaurants in Europe.

If you take an e-car tour (mentioned with GetYourGuide above) the guide will bring to life the square with a detailed explanation of its architecture. Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque styles all blend beautifully and each one has its own story. There’s the House of the Seven Electors, the House of the Golden Dog, and the twin Hansel and Gretel Houses just for starters. And it’s also possible to climb the tower of St Elizabeth’s Church for a birds-eye view of it all – however, we have another tower-climb to recommend that we preferred – see our number 5 of Things To Do In Wroclaw.

4. Go Dwarf Hunting

This isn’t some kind of prejudicial past-time to wipe out short people – Wroclaw has HUNDREDS of miniature bronze dwarfs hiding around the city for you to discover. Wandering the Rynek you’ll already have seen some of these whimsical sculptures clustered around the square. So what’s the deal with the dwarfs?

Well the story is more than just cute art – the dwarfs are rooted in political history, local humour, and a deep sense of Wrocław’s identity.

They started as a symbol of resistance in the 1980’s during communist rule, under a movement called the ‘Orange Alternative’ who used absurd and humorous street art to oppose the regime. When authorities painted over anti-government graffiti, the activists would cheekily paint dwarfs over the censorship marks – hoping to mock the seriousness of the regime. The dwarfs became a powerful symbol of freedom, creativity, and peaceful defiance. The first bronze dwarf statue — Papa Krasnal, a tribute to the movement — was installed in 2001 near Świdnicka Street, where many Orange Alternative protests had taken place.

There’s now an official Wrocław Dwarf Trail, with maps and even a mobile app to help you hunt them down – a citywide treasure hunt that everyone can join in with!

The OG – Papa Krasnal, and Biker-Dwarf

5. Climb The Bridge Of Penitents

There are multiple birds-eye vista’s to take in Wroclaw but the Bridge of Penitents was our favourite. You get the best views over the square, there’s a pretty quirky story to be told on your ascent, and there’s also a couple of dwarf’s at the top as well – and all for £2.50.

The Bridge of Penitents is a narrow bridge between two 15th-century church towers at St Mary Magdalene’s Cathedral and is reached by 247 steps – a great reason to have two pistachio cruffin’s for breakfast.

I really don’t want to spoil the story of Tekla, the vain and lazy daughter of a man who thought a curse would do the trick. It’s outrageous and hilarious and the story-boards give you an excuse to stop half-way up and pretend you’re not having an asthma attack from the climb. Then once you’re at the top, there are two dwarf’s reliving Tekla’s story for you to photograph – the perfect reward for the agonising climb you just accomplished.

Other birds-eye views to consider in Wroclaw…

• SKY TOWER – tallest building in Wroclaw with an observation deck on the 49th floor.
• ST ELIZABETH’S CHURCH – already mentioned, in the market square.
• WROCLAW CATHEDRAL TOWER ON OSTROW TUMSKI – A scenic, historic perspective overlooking the oldest part of Wroclaw, the rivers and the Cathedral island.
• The rooftop bars at DACH DOMINIKANSKA and the WDECH ROOFTOP – not as towering as the other three but great places for an elevated beverage.

6. Follow The Gas Lamp Lighter At Dusk

Every evening in Wrocław’s oldest district, Ostrów Tumski, a lamplighter appears to illuminate 100 traditional gas lamps. A few curious tourists follow this cloaked crusader with his torch-mounted pole as he walks the same route he does every day.

This isn’t a re-enactment or a costumed performance for tourists – it’s a real job, although it does have a touch of theatre to it. He appears at sunset then returns again at dawn to extinguish them. It’s a ritual that feels frozen in time and fits perfectly with the atmosphere of Ostrow Tumski with its Gothic spires, cobbled streets and slower pace. We were very happy we caught this beautiful tradition.

TIPS:

• If you want to catch him he always starts at the double-lamp to the back right of the Cathedral of St John The Baptist.
• He appears every night at dusk – roughly 30 minutes before sunset.
• The full lighting route takes around 30-45 minutes.

7. Visit The Hala Targowa – Indoor Market Hall

Markets always offer a glimpse into local life and the vibrant Hala Targowa is no different. There is nothing luxurious about this place mind you (maybe the dozens of flower stalls at the back could be construed as romantic?), but it’s a fascinating place and we wandered it for ages.

It’s especially lively in the morning when locals stock up for the day and the stalls are a feast for the eyes and an attack on the senses. Crazy looking mushrooms, cakes and pastries galore, and foreign labels with a distinctive retro-neon-70’s vibe.

We’d heard the homemade pierogi’s at Polskie Jadlo in the right-hand corner of the market were the best in town so we went ahead and ordered. Prices were so cheap however that the 3 types we thought we’d ordered turned out to be 3 plate fulls! But what a great place – authentic Polish scran served by authentic Polish grandma’s in aprons and warm smiles.

8. Take A River Cruise

Wroclaw’s river winds gracefully around its many islands, under dozens of charming bridges, and offers a unique perspective of the city. Boat cruises on the Odra River come in many forms – sightseeing guided tours for history or architecture, or even a private yacht with dining options for a more special occasion or if you’re feeling particularly romantic.

Where To Eat And Drink In Wroclaw

As you walk the streets of Wroclaw every place you pass looks SO inviting! There really is no shortage of cafes, restaurants and bars. Here are a few places we experienced and can wholeheartedly recommend, starting with some fine-dining since we hope you found this post looking for luxury on a budget…

POSH NOSH FOR PENNIES

• Start the day off fancy with breakfast at DINETTE. Despite its designer Scandinavian vibe with banquette seating and open kitchen the prices are pleasantly down to earth. Tuck into a perfectly poached egg on some homemade sourdough or try the fluffy pancake stash – all washed down with some locally roasted coffee.
• Another place we absolutely loved was the atmospheric WROCLAWSKA. It’s famous for their schnitzel so that’s what we ordered, but this place is about more than just the food. We dined in the cellars, our waitress was perfectly attentive and hospitable, and wherever she could she explained the restaurants connections to the food we were eating. We also indulged in a rack of 6 homemade vodka’s (when in Rome!) which washed down some honey cake nicely.
• If you like a bit of music whilst you dine, head to NIEWINNI CZARODZIEJE 2.0 in the very centre of the Market Square behind the Town Hall. We didn’t actually eat here, although all of the food that was brought out looked so good, but the live music was fantastic and we enjoyed a great glass of red in their very funky restaurant/bar.

• Maybe once you’ve followed the lamp-lighter around the block, have a table booked at the bib gourmand restaurant IDA KUCHNIA I WINO in the old town of Wroclaw, Ostrow Tumski. This is a truly luxury dining experience that would cost you a pretty penny in the UK, and whilst the prices aren’t exactly budget, what you do get is Michelin quality. Expect a modern twist on traditional Polish dishes.
• We couldn’t believe the lunch deal on offer at POD LATARNIAMI. And although not fine-dining it’s a beautiful bar with exceptional food and really great prices.

OTHER GREAT PLACES WITH A MORE CASUAL FEEL

• A must-go restaurant infamous in Wroclaw and providing a window into Polish history is KONSPIRA. Guests are immersed in a re-creation of 1980’s Poland during the late Communist era. Newspapers, political cartoons, vintage furniture and a hidden apartment all tell the story of the Solidarity Movement. You get a helping of thought-provoking plots with your pork knuckle and you leave slightly more educated. Literal food for thought.
• Another historical gem is PIWNICA SWIDNICKA – apparently the oldest restaurant in Europe. Located in the basement of the old Town Hall it claims its origins as early as 1273. In my books that’s reason enough to visit a place, and dining in the medieval cellars gives a strong sense of time and place, but the food is also actually really good too! Named after a local town where a strong barley beer was brewed, as you can guess – beer is a strong theme here too. Be sure to try the house brew.
• Some great bakeries and coffee shops we tried; CENTRAL CAFE on Swietego Antoniego, CHLEBOTEKA on Ruska, CAFE BERG on the river at Piotra Skargi, and my favourite – KRAJ COFFEE on Plac Uniwersytecki which had all the feels of your grandma’s living room if your grandma loved matcha latte’s and jazz.

• If you make it as far as the railway viaduct on the outskirts of town, affectionately known to locals as ‘Nasyp‘, there are two places under the arches that we would recommend: Pizza Si and the pub Siwy Dym. You really are in the spot where the locals eat around here (a good 20 minute walk from the market square) so expect excellent value and excellent choice. Pizza Si combines the perfect charred crust with a sweet tomato sauce and a glass of wine, all for under £10. And Siwy Dym does the perfect Margarita in cosy surroundings.
• For those in the know, queue’s are consistent at OYCHE DONER on Szewska – a kebab counter worth the wait. Good quality kebab meat, fantastically fresh flat-bread, and perfectly seasoned with fresh herbs.
• Some more bars we frequented and loved; COCOFLI onPawla Wlodkowica – a book-shop come wine-bar for early drinks. If the weather’s in your favour head to GALERIA NEON SIDE for an outside table in a yard full of neon signs. If you want to sample some vodka’s, we started the night off with a rack of shots at CZUPITO and almost blew our heads off with the chilli one. And because it was right near the Cyrus Hotel where we stayed, our evenings invariably ended sat at the bar in PAPA BAR – this might be a sports bar but the back-lit display of bottles and the selection of cocktails pulled us in everytime. Like we said previously – everywhere you walk past in Wroclaw you just want to go in – places are just SO inviting!

Travel Tips For Wroclaw

• Both RYANAIR andWIZZ AIR operate flights from the UK to Wroclaw. Airports supplying this route include Gatwick, Luton, Stansted, East Midlands, Bristol, Manchester, Edinburgh & Glasgow. We paid £40 return for our flights in September from East Midlands.
• Don’t bother catching the tram or other public transport from the airport – an Uber cost us under £10! The journey was approximately 30 minutes and we probably saved 15 minutes.
• Hiring a car is NOT necessary for visiting Wroclaw.
• Wroclaw is a fairly small city so staying on the outskirts of town won’t over-complicate things, but since accommodation is pretty cheap here we definitely recommend staying in the centre area of Wroclaw for maximum convenience and atmosphere.
• Fine dining often need booking ahead, especially on weekends.
• 10% is standard tipping for good service and it’s polite to hand it directly to the waiter.
• Poland used the złoty (PLN) as their currency.
• If you want to book tickets to an Opera, Ballet or Classical Concert at the world-class venue, The National Forum of Music, book early – tickets go quickly.

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We know you’re going to have a fabulous luxury break in Wroclaw – and without having to sell a kidney either. And if you do have any questions, drop us a line and we’ll attempt to answer you.

We’d like to take this opportunity to thank our readers for their continued support. Every booking you make through one of our links earns us a small commission at no extra cost to you and it all goes towards the upkeep of the blog.

If you’re looking for somewhere a little warmer than Poland, but still a budget-friendly luxury weekend getaway, how about the island of Krk in Croatia? It’s compact, there’s cheap flights and accommodation, eating out is affordable, plus we have a really great hotel to recommend that definitely won’t break the bank. Check out our post…

A Weekend Break To The Island Of Krk, Croatia