An Istria (Croatia) Travel Guide

A country heavily influenced by its past landlords, the Romans and Venetians, Istria is like the cleaner, calmer version of Italy. The roads are a dream to navigate, even in the middle of August, as Istria has just the right amount of tourists appreciating its beauty. Equally, the weather too is the perfect combination of not too hot and not too cold which is ideal for both Istria’s beautiful beaches and day trips to its historic towns.

Maybe down to the fact that Istria doesn’t receive hoards of tourists every year, the locals still have a kindness about them which is sometimes hard to find in busier neighbouring countries – especially at peak season. They are desperate to share the love of their country with you and eager to let you try their truffles or local wine – you will find their enthusiasm so heartwarming. Also, English is taught in schools so most of the time it’s easy to get by and the Istrians don’t seem affronted that they need to use it. And when you go the extra mile to learn a few phrases in Croatian they can’t be more touched!

Read our Istria travel guide to discover all the best places in Istria, which towns to visit and what to see… 

Wondering Where To Stay In Istria Croatia?

We’d like to tell you all about our favourite places in Istria and the towns you absolutely must visit, but first of all we have a few hotel recommendations for you. We have visited Istria 3 times now, for several weeks at a time, and there are a few great spots that make a good base.

THE CENTRE OF ISTRIA, CROATIA. GREAT FOR EXPLORERS

The first time we visited we stayed right in the middle of Istria in the lovely little town of Motovun. Motovun makes it onto our top places to visit in Istria list anyway, but to be there in the evenings when the day-trippers have left is a special thing. We booked Villa Borgo, received the warmest welcome and ate breakfast each morning with the most impressive views. And, making Motovun as a base is the perfect idea for those of you who like to explore – nowhere is too far for day trips.

For the best deals at Villa Borgo, click here.

FAZANA, ISTRIA. A QUIET FAMILY RESORT

When we returned one year with the family, Fazana was an obvious perfect option for us. We knew it to be a quiet little harbour town with a couple of beaches and plenty for the kids to do. But equally, it’s close enough to Pula and Rovinj and a few other gorgeous little towns to make convenient little day trips. There’s a family vibe in the area and it really does have the prettiest waterfront – evenings by the harbour are things memories are made of!

We’ve stayed at both this beautiful villa, perfect for a large family, and the Villa Nina Apartments and can wholeheartedly recommend both.

Villa Nina Apartments, Fazana, Istria.

A SPECIAL GLAMPING EXPERIENCE

Since our first trip to Istria, Croatia, in 2018 we have been recommending this Adriatic gem to anyone who would listen. And thankfully quite a few of our friends and family have now visited and discovered its magnificence for themselves. And, one place that has come highly recommended to us is Arena One 99 Glamping just south of Pula.

If you are looking for a relaxing natural vibe, seconds from the beach and hidden amongst nature and some grand old trees, then this is the place for you. A glamping set-up with all the luxury commodities you wouldn’t necessarily presume, like hot-tubs, TV’s and loungers. And whilst you may be a fair drive from some of the Istrian towns on our list, this is the perfect spot for taking advantage of watersports. And despite it’s calming serenity, it’s still only a 10 minute drive to the city of Pula.

For the best deals at Arena One 99 Glamping, click here.

The Top 7 Best Towns In Istria, Croatia

In our Istria Travel Guide we wanted to introduce you to our favourite towns, the ones we think you should definitely put on your bucket list to visit. That’s not to say it’s a comprehensive list though as there are so many wonderful things to do when you visit Istria, Croatia. But here’s a start, some day-trip worthy places you don’t want to miss…

1. Rovinj

Whilst the rest of the world is visiting Dubrovnic further south in Croatia, those in the know stick with the less touristy medieval fortress, Rovinj. A little like Venice over the Adriatic Sea, Rovinj began as an island, but in time the channel was filled joining it to the mainland. Rovinj will probably be the busiest place you will encounter in Istria but it’s easy to see why! It is a must-see on our guide to Istria if only to imagine what Venice would be like if it was polished. Gleaming white cobblestones in thin little streets eventually lead you up to the top for the best views of tiny people and turquoise waters. And if your legs will allow it, the extra climb of 192 steps up the most rickety staircase in the Church of St Euphemia will deposit you on a slightly less rickety platform for even better views of Istria and tiny people.

You’ll need to regain your confidence when you’re back on terra firma so wind back down through Rovinj and grab a glass of something stiff at one of the many restaurants and bars, or mosey around several of the seemingly hundreds of art galleries. Beautiful gift shops and boutiques also make Rovinj the perfect town for a spot of shopping too.

2. Porec

Whilst Porec might be one of the main tourist resort areas for big hotels it needn’t put you off. This sweet little town on the Adriatic has loads going for it! Through the day you can take off on a boat trip to see whales and dolphins or even hire some jet ski’s, Porec is one of the main area’s to take water-related day trips – even a trip to Venice if you so require.

However, inside the narrow streets of Porec you will want to visit the UNESCO listed Euphrasian Basilica for its amazing mosaics and stunning Byzantine architecture. Or the remains of two Roman temples to Mars and Neptune – not that inspiring in themselves, but definitely a glimpse at what Porec would’ve been like under Roman rule. Interestingly, the gridlike structure of Porec’s streets is a nod to the Romans too.

Pre-Roman’s however, the Venetians owned Porec and the Venetian-style Gothic architecture can be admired at the Zuccato Palace and several other places as you wander around. Porec comes to life on an evening and has a reputation as a bit of a party town but honestly, it still has a relaxed vibe whilst people eat their huge pizza’s and drink their cheap local wine from restaurant terraces and pavement tables. Porec has a happy vibe and a lovely holiday feel.

3. Opatija

If you make the trip over to Opatija in the top right corner of the Istrian triangle, you may as well have stepped into another country! When the rich and royals of western Europe were having a good old shindig in St Tropez, the Russian Oligarchs and eastern European gangsters were wining and dining their dolly-birds in the cliffside cafeterias of Opatija. The architecture becomes Austro-Hungarian, very grand and luxurious. Neatly painted stucco in soft pastel shades offset the white decorative mouldings at the edges. Preened gardens and box hedging, a jolly speaker-system attached to lamp-posts playing summer vibe songs, confectionary shops selling the prettiest Austrian pralines and bathers swimming in the lido’s: all reminiscent of a 1950’s seaside scene. Designer stores line the high street but this is no artificial paradise – the locals are present and cheery, probably because the rest of the world hasn’t discovered their little gem of a town. Yes, there are yachts in the harbour but it’s understated wealth and in no way pretentious.

Take a stroll along the Lungomare (seafront promenade) then grab a strong Austrian coffee at the famous Cafe Wagner for the ultimate people-watching opportunity. Sample another type of Istrian truffle, this time made with Austrian chocolate or grab a bit of shade in one of the towns shaded manicured gardens. Opatija was built with luxury in mind over 100 years ago but it still oozes it today and is quite a contrast to the more natural and rustic charms of the rest of Istria – a definite worthy day trip if you have hired a car in Istria.

4. Motovun

Motovun, one of Istria’s hilltop towns, is great for foodies and has strong connections to the truffle trade of Istria. It turns up in any good guide to Istria and is one of the best towns to visit if you love your food! Hang off the walls (safely of course) and stretch your neck to see the forests below – forests of pigs searching for black and white truffles that seem to have put Istria on the (foodie) map. You can sample and buy their truffled delights in some of the little stores and gift shops or taste these local delicacies with your meal. There are a few nicely placed bars with tables on the town walls for the best view of the sunset – the perfect trip out for an hour or two in the early evening.

5. Groznjan

The little town of Groznjan is great for a wander too – not only are the house fronts made to look their best with hanging baskets and vines of Bougainvillea, but the insides of stores are a shoppers dream – tiny little stone rooms filled to the brim with local artists pieces and unique Istrian gifts – like the olive oil soaps, wrapped so beautifully in designer packaging that even your smelliest friend wouldn’t take offense at a souvenir! There are many other little hilltop towns in Istria but Motovun and Groznjan are our favourite and well worth an afternoon out, exploring and debating the merits of these neighbourhoods in the clouds.

6. Fazana

With absolutely no intention of visiting the place, we stumbled across Fazana in desperate need of some food after a long day exploring some Istrian gems. It turned out to be the holiday destination we would rebook again and again! I don’t know if it was the euphoria of the giant slice of Pizza I shoved in my face or simply the beautiful outlook over the harbour to the islands of Brijuni, but we fell in love with Fazana instantly.

The Brijuni National Park just across the water brings in day-trippers to hire and charter boats, but once the rush is gone around early evening, the orange glow of the sun bathes one of the prettiest little fishing villages in all of Istria in the most glorious hues.

There’s not a lot to do here, except maybe meander the little market and tiny town, or sunbathe on the beach but we loved the feel of the place. There’s always action and enterprise going on in the working harbour giving Fazana a very local feel. But equally, the locals have recognized their beautiful town for what it is and there are enough restaurants and bars to accommodate a relaxed holidaymaker and their thirsty palate.

This place is so wonderful it deserved a blog post of it’s own, check it out here…

7. Pula

Literally a 5 minute drive from Fazana, and the main working town of Istria, Pula is as urban as it gets in this part of Croatia. It’s home to more than half of Istria’s population and also the area’s main airport. With that, of course, comes industry and high-rise housing, but if you want to see one of Istria’s gem’s and top tourist attractions then you must come to Pula to see the amphitheatre.

The most in-tact remaining Roman amphitheatre in the world, the Pula Arena is a sight to behold and there’s no way we’re leaving it off this Istria travel guide. It still has it’s four side towers preserved and dates back to AD81, finished by Emperor Titus who built Rome’s Colosseum too. Istria’s colosseum is used throughout the summer as a venue for concerts – in fact, we flew over the Adriatic recently and the bright lights of this concert venue could be seen from way up there, so make sure you check out their gig guide for when you’re visiting, it would make the best venue!

What And Where To Eat In Istria Croatia

Istria stretches out like a green carpet when you stand on the walls of one of their hilltop towns – field after field of arable farms and vineyards make it easy to understand why food is such a big deal to the Istrians. It’s fair to say that their pride brings only the best and freshest ingredients to your plate and when you sit down to eat you get a sense of what it was like 50 years ago everywhere else in Europe when pretty much everything was organic and it was picked when it was good and ready.

Pizza is everywhere, and it’s good! We particularly like the harbour-front in Fazana which has a number of pizzerias with the best dinner time view. Or alternatively, you could visit Porec and eat your whole weeks’ meal in one with their seemingly famous ginormous pizza. There are a few restaurants that get the best reviews on trip advisor, but just wander around and you will see for yourself how big they are and how good they look!

If you visit Opatija for the day, you must eat at Submarine Burger in the neighbouring fishing village of Volosko – grab yourself a seat with a harbour view and order their mini triple burger plate.

Along the coast, you’re not short of fish and seafood restaurants with typical Croatian dishes like Skampi Buzzara (prawns in a tomato sauce) or Brodetto (a fisherman’s stew). Inland, you’re more likely to see more meat dishes on the menu, like Peka (or Ispod Cripnje) which is tender slow-cooked lamb or veal made in an earthenware pot, or platefuls of the local Istrian smoked ham. Try and get a booking at Konoba Mondo in Motuvun.

Istria is well famous for its truffles and thankfully they’re in good supply so it’s not too expensive to buy and you receive generous helpings when you choose a truffle dish – honestly, if you are in Istria you mustn’t miss out on the truffles! If you’re going for breakfast, start the day right and opt for the truffled scrambled eggs.

Konoba’s, or Gostionica’s, are little family ran restaurants where you can guarantee the food will be special and the setting a little more intimate. Often they use vegetables from their own gardens and wine from their own vineyards so the prices are so reasonable, if not surprisingly cheap. Basically, you can’t go wrong eating out in Istria.

So there you have it, our Istria travel guide and recommendations to getting the most out of your trip to Istria. Maybe you have come across some of your own little gems in Istria, if so, do let us know, we’d love to try them on our next visit. And any questions, send us a message below – we’ll do our best to help!

Istria was our first taste of Croatia, but we have since visited another little Croatian gem not too far from the Istrian peninsula… Krk Island. If you would like to know more, we wrote about it here…

A Weekend On The Island of Krk In Croatia

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